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San Roque's Gastronomic Line:
Don’t travel on an empty stomach
Estación de San Roque
Nostalgia about the Golden Age of Steam Trains
The history of Estación de San Roque (San Roque Station) is relatively short, its development was always linked to the construction of the railway line at the end of the 19th century. Even so, it was not until January 1909 when San Roque City Council decided to officially found the village, by virtue of a resolution which had been adopted in December 1908.
This new village was grew around the development of the only railway line in the area, linking Algeciras and Bobadilla (Antequera). The first section, which was inaugurated in October 1892, went as far as Jimena de la Frontera. This impressive train line, which runs through the white washed villages nestled in the Ronda mountain range, was actually built by a British engineering company. The line was soon to become an amazing engineer feat of its time, especially bearing in mind the mountainous terrain over impressive ravines and cutting through gorges.
At first, the village, which was then known as El Loro (The Parrot in English), started to grow around San Roque’s railway station. In the Golden Age of Steam Trains, the first inhabitants here saw those first passenger and freight steam trains pass on their way to the port of Algeciras. As time went by, local people and travellers witnessed the first signs of the Industrial Revolution in the region. Before the creation of RENFE (Spanish Rail) in 1941, the line was operated by a private railway company.
Shortly after completion, new projects arose related to this magnificent way of travelling, such as the project presented by Carlos Larios y Sanchez at the end of 1903 to build a tram line fitted with mechanical traction between San Roque Station and the border town of La Linea.
The main aim of this business venture was to transport cork bark and other agricultural produce from Larios’ land properties as far as Gibraltar and beyond. Unfortunately, the Larios initiative did not materialise due to Military opposition. Nevertheless, Larios came back with another idea for an electrical-powered tram line between the station, the village of Puente Mayorga and with a terminus in Gibraltar, which again the Ministry of Defence did not approve.
Despite these setbacks, the importance of the port of Gibraltar during the Peninsula War (“War of Independence” in Spanish) in the 18th Century put the place on the map and it became part of the Contraband Route up to Ronda. Much of the railway line was used as way of smuggling black market goods (all kinds of fabric, silk, Virginia tabacco, sugar, coffee, tea, etc.) until the border at Gibraltar was closed in 1969.
The main road at that time, now called the A-450 main road was always an important communications route, giving rise to the development of restaurants, old world inns and roadside bars as well as a wide range of furniture shops along the Guadarranque Avenue Nowadays it has become one of the most popular tourist itineraries to visit the whitewashed towns of the Ronda Montain Range. In addition to walled Moorish – Christian frontier towns like Castellar and Jimena. Without a doubt, San Roque Station is the Gateway to Los Alcornocales (Cork Oak Tree in Spanish) Nature Park .
The Station: 9 establishments, “Grade A” in good food
The gastronomical amenities at Estación de San Roque are well-known in the whole of the Gibraltar Area due to excellent premises that specialize in meat, fish and game dishes. This is an excellent location in the heart of the region, meaning that it is close to the all neighbouring towns.
After San Roque City Centre, heading towards Cadiz, come off the A-7 dual carriageway at junction 115, drive a quarter of a mile through the neightbouring village of Taraguilla and after the bend you will come to a straight section of Guadarranque Avenue. This road offers ample parking spaces in every stretch, making parking your car easy.
On the right hand side is Casa Barea Restaurant, founded in 1969 and with a pleasant family atmosphere. The restaurant features traditional home-made dishes, specialising in Iberian spicy sausages and cheese. We were tempted by succulent Spare Ribs coated in cane sugar honey.
Our next stop
was at Guadagujas Grill Restaurant (Signalman
in Spanish), a new theme restaurant on a premises that has been open for the
last eighteen years. Meat is also the main dish here and we tried Wild boar in thyme and enjoyed the select,
modern atmosphere.
Our next stop is the oldest-running restaurant in the village, La Maniobra Restaurant (the Manoeuvre in Spanish). The roadside inn was established in 1961 by the Martinez family. The restaurant specialises in fresh fish dishes. We decided to try the delicious Hake (Merluza a la Maniobra) with clams and prawns in onion and garlic sauce.
Just a little further down the road is Hermanos Chacón Restaurant, next to the old 19th railway station, a very popular bistro where we were delighted to sample the delicious Sirloin with Almonds.
Not very far from there, just past the new train station is the modern Rocío Restaurant, which offers typical home-made cuisine at affordable prices. We opted for the exquisite skin side down sea bass.
Our next stop was at Mesón El Vivo, a new old world inn specializing in quality Andalusian cuisine.
The next restaurant is a stone throw away, just the other side of the level crossing on the left hand side, the superb Guadarnés Restaurant. This typical establishment is located an old-fashioned looking single storey building and has been family-run bar since 1958. This excellent restaurant was inaugurated in the year 2000. Breadcrumb rolls stuffed with Monkfish are the speciality of the house. They will really make your mouth water!
On the outskirts of the village, on the right hand side is Los Timbales Restaurant, an establishment founded on 1972. We felt inclined to try the loin with a mushroom sance.
Directly oppossite,
on the left hand side of the main road is the Juan Carlos Restaurant. We
were delighted to come across
another great place to try the best game and ordered Venison in sauce.
Taraguilla-Miraflores
Longing for the Age of Vintage Cars and the Horse-Drawn Carriages
In 1582 the name “Taraguillas” (in plural) appeared for the first time. It was mentioned in a document in which Constancia Rodriguez, the widow of Bartholomé Carrillo made donation to the Hospital of Our Lady of the Defenceless in Gibraltar, “with the rent from Taraguillas, an estate with orchards, vineyards and arable land”.
One of the Roman roads included on Antonine Route is said to have run through here. We can therefore we can acknoledge that it has been an important crossroads for centuries.
The present village is closely linked to floods that occurred before the Guadarranque Reservoir was built that devastated Estación de San Roque. Some of the flood victims were allocated housing here built by the Military Housing Trust in the Sixties.
Just like the neighbouring village of Estación, the importance of Gibraltar made Taraguilla become part of the Contraband Route. The railway and the main road were used by the smugglers until the frontier was shut.
Gibraltar City Council in Exile at San Roque held a meeting at this place in 1712 at one of the existing country estates. In 1782 the well-known writer Lopez de Ayala had already emphasised the beneficial properties of the spring water from a source at Miraflores.
The Miraflores Roadside Inn was founded in 1916 and became one of the most reputed in the Gibraltar Area. During the Second World War it was haunt for Italian and Germans who operated in the area. It was also the recreational spot for instructors at Provisional Sergeants Academy at San Roque Military Barracks. The present housing estate dates back to the early Eighties.
Eat out as well as at home
The first establishment we came across at Miraflores (just before exit 116) is the spacious Casa Bernardo Macías, run by Bernardo Macías Sanchez and Juana Rodriguez. It was inaugurated in 1987. The restaurant offers traditional Andalusian cuisine and has a capacity for 200 people in the main dining room. In addition, there are two halls for weddings and banquets. Here we a 300-gramme calf sirloin with mushrooms and red peppers, buttered vegetables and jacket potatoes. Very delicious indeed!
Our second stop is at Zocato Bar Restaurant, located right by Taraguilla junction (exit 115). Founded in 1983 by a family nicknamed “Zocato” (Left-handers). We could savoured one of most representative dishes of Spanish cuisine: Casserole Vermicelli.
The following stop on our route is situated on Guadarranque Avenue, next to the first furniture stores: Los Rosales Bar Restaurant. The Rodriguez-Tirado family acquired the premises in 1990, but it has been a bar since the 1960’s. Typically Andalusian recipes rule okay and we savoured a tapa of squid and a tripe and chick pea stew.
Our next stop is the charming Plaza de las Flores Square in the middle of this popular village, El Jimenato Bar Cafeteria. This premises has been open since 1980, although the present owners have been running it since 2004. We selected a tapa of stuffed avocados here.
La Pólvora Bar Restaurant is located at the San Roque Industrial Estate and has been open since 1994. This establishment features completely traditional home-made Andalusian recipes, breakfast, lunch and tapas. The specialities of the house are stews and broths, so we decided to try the Lentil Stew.
As you head back towards the dual carriageway, at junction 115, you will come across La Redonda Bar Restaurant. This extensive premises, which as been running for the last 13 years, offers a dinig hall for 100 diners. Also featuring home-made traditional cuisine and a variety of tapa dishes. Here we chose roasted loin with apple sauce.
The rest is up to you! In any case, people say that there is no place like home for good food, but perhaps in Taraguilla-Miraflores is an exception...
With our stomachs full, it is time to make our way off and make the most of the outbeatable afternoon sun. Where to? That depends on you, but a quiet stroll would come in handy. How about a ramble around one of the footpaths at the Pinar del Rey Pine Woods or within Los Alcornocales cork oak groves? There are also monuments and museums in San Roque City Centre or the castles and convents at Castellar and Jimena. Your options are endless…
